On our third day in Rhinebeck, NY, we took advantage of a break in the rain (it was just drizzling) and headed over to the library to blog and to investigate the route ahead. Renewed heavy rains east of us, and really throughout the New England area, have re-established threats of flooding and have delayed or set back repair efforts on damaged roads along the intended route. Two bridges on the route, one in York and one inland near Lowell, are out.
All these things led me to explore possible alternatives. We had noticed official bike route signs while we were riding up SR 9, so I looked up NY State bike routes and found one that heads up the Hudson River past Lake George to Port Henry, where we can take a ferry to Burlington; it also goes straight through Ticonderoga, so we can use the same route to return from Burlington. It is nearly the same as the route I had planned on using anyway. Tomorrow, we think we will get to Albany, and perhaps take a day off there, rent a car, and go over to Cooperstown to see the Baseball Hall of Fame. We'll see.
After the library closed, we rode through the drizzle to the theater so we could see the other film playing there, "Sketches of Frank Gehry". We were putting the cover over our bikes when a man asked us if we were just up for the weekend; we were about to answer when we realized it was Fred, the man we had met outside New Paltz just a few days ago! He was there with his wife Pam, who we got to meet at last; they were talking about which film to see. He wanted to see the Al Gore film we saw yesterday, and she wanted to see the Gehry film because she thought it wouldn't come to the theater near them (but that the Al Gore film might). Our presence got them to decide on the Gehry film (which is fascinating, by the way); they told us that there was a Gehry structure, the Sosnoff Auditorium at Bard College, very close by, and that if we wanted they could drive us out there to see it and then we could have dinner afterwards.
What a happy coincidence! Fred and Pam were fun company, full of great stories and information, and we spent a little while at the Sosnoff just looking around. While there, we ran into one of their friends, Jay Wenk, who lives in Woodstock (yes, THAT Woodstock), a WWII vet who also competes in the Senior Olympics, and who also was recently arrested for protesting in front of a military recruiting station (the charges were dismissed later). Neat guy. He was there to see a performance for which we could not get tickets (sold out), so we just lurked around the building. I spent most of the time looking up open-mouthed, just trying to comprehend the structural analysis needed to ensure the thing would not fall down. I'm at a loss, and have to marvel that any building plans reviewer was able to satisfy himself or herself that they understood enough to OK its construction.
I urge everyone to go find some picture of the Sosnoff Auditorium at Bard College. It is colloquially called "Bilbao in the Woods" because it resembles the Guggenheim Museum of Art in Bilbao. Simply beautiful, and amazing.
We enjoyed a nice dinner near the outskirts of Rhinebeck, a place called CJ's, and talked until nearly 10. By the time they dropped us off back at our hotel, we were tired, but completely happy that we had run in to Fred and Pam at the theater. They are truly a unique pair.
Today, as we expected, we made it to Albany by following the NY State DOT Bicycle Route 9. We stopped infrequently, pausing only for snacks a couple of times (at particularly scenic points along the route), before taking a bit longer rest at Castleton-on-Hudson for a sandwich and some veggies. We expected to be in Rensselaer in a couple of miles and to be able to find some hotels in Albany in fairly short order. It had been cold and a bit windy, and we had been rained on a few times, so we were ready to stop.
Of course, I was completely off-base; it was nearly 7 miles before we reached the interchange I was expecting, and upon reaching Albany, at about 58 miles, we headed up Clinton Road expecting to reach Central Avenue, and a collection of hotels, in just a mile or so. SIX miles later, after rolling along past addresses that increased at an appallingly torpid pace, we reached a Scottish Inn next to a bike shop that I was sure was WAY too far out of town when I had looked it up before. Nancy has been having a little shifting issue, and we're going to have the shop look at it while we take a day to go to Cooperstown (we think, for now).
In a day or two, we'll head off up to Fort Edward/Hudson Falls, perhaps camping near there if the weather stays dry. The prospects are iffy, but we'll do what we have to do. We've talked with our friends Kurt and Holly in Burlington to let them know we should be there by the weekend; even though the hot tub might not be done, we'll still be able to go to some of the local breweries and to Ben and Jerry's, of course.
In the meantime, we're going to enjoy the Hudson River valley, the Capitol region, and the eastern edge of the Adirondacks. Omitting the New England area cuts some time and distance off the route, and we are disappointed to have to miss it; but in exchange we now have the opportunity to see the St. Lawrence seaway and parts of Quebec and Ontario we would not have been able to see otherwise. Our intermediate goal now is to be near Niagara Falls on or before July 1, the Canadian Independence Day; should be a fun celebration there for that. So, the adventure continues!
2 comments:
Okay, some info that you've probably already come across:
My family and I have stayed at Bulwagga Bay Campground in Port Henry. We highly recommend at least checking the view from the Bay if you just end passing through, where you can see the Green Mountains quite well, and from that area, you can also see the Champlain Bridge peeking through the trees.
Bulwagga Bay Campground/Park:
http://www.porthenry.com/campgrounds/bwb_park.htm
Considering that that is about 61 miles from Hudson Falls, that might be pushing it. Crown Point has a NYDEC campground (http://www.dec.state.ny.us/website/do/camping/campgrounds/crownpoint.html) that might be more in range, particularly if you stop to see the sights in Ticonderoga.
As I said before, check out the Fort in Ticonderoga, and if you want a good view of the Fort and the approach that the ships from Skenesborough (now Whitehall) had or the approach the British had coming from the north, go to Mount Defiance. I do believe they allow bicycles all the way up (not cars).
Bike route 9 below Ticonderoga isn't terribly bad, but there are some spots where the shoulder may be a little worn -- all the tractor trailers headed for Ticonderoga take their toll on the road. Dresden (just north of Whitehall) has some sections where there are passing lanes, and not much of a shoulder at all -- those sections are also the most worn.
Around Ticonderoga, wide shoulders and road, so it is much easier through there. As you go through Street Road, it gets a little narrow, then widens again near the upper entrance of the paper mill. Above that, through Crown Point and Port Henry, the road can be quite a bit narrower as there are rock cuts you'll have to go through. Above Port Henry, the road stays at a more moderate width for the most part.
I know, probably info you have somewhere already, but I thought I'd give a little extra notice on the road conditions which shouldn't have changed much since December.
You've probably also noticed the motorcycles around the area by now. It is Americade time in Lake George. If you like them, it might be fun to head over there, otherwise, Lake George and Glens Falls will be a zoo.
When you pass through the town of Whitehall, look up on the mountain to your right, and you will see Skene Manor. I haven't been there in quite some time, but word is the latest owners have done a decent job keeping the place up. The park near the canal (the street is just east off of US 4 East and parallels Bike Route 9/State 22) was recently renovated and looks nice, and the remains of the Ticonderoga are there, as is the Skenesborough Museum. It is small, so it doesn't take too long to visit. Be careful at the split of Route 4/Route 22 at the light -- we have had incidents with cars hitting bicyclists there because cars headed north/east don't have a clear view of the intersection of what is in it and drivers come through there a little fast if they are headed east (they don't have to stop unless something is in the way).
Hope this helps. The only time the Lake Champlain area gets any more beautiful is during a vibrant fall. Too bad it is a little uglier this year with the Gypsy moth nests all over.
Crap, cut off that web address...
http://www.dec.state.ny.us/website/do/
camping/campgrounds/crownpoint.html
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